If you’re gonna talk about a wine, you better know how to pronounce it. So let’s just get this out of the way. It’sΒ “groo-ner velt-lee-ER”. Not “velt-lee-NAY” or “Groonah Veltlinah” asΒ my friend Jimmy from Boston says.
Gruner has yo-yo’dΒ back and forth between trendy and forgettable over the years. But it’s always been the Sommelier’s little darling. Here are a few reasons why.
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It shows offΒ a unique purity
Serious winemakers try to frameΒ their wines with a sense of place, a sortΒ of terroir-induced soul. For Gruner that means capturing the perfect balance ofΒ it’s aromatics, acidity, and flavors. It’s typically a leaner,Β aromatic wine with a tongue-tingling acidity, deliveringΒ a range of flavors like stone fruit, white flowers, green apple, a distinct peppery spice, and minerality.
Terraced vines alongside the Danube river in Wachau. Photo credit
Gruner is actually very easy to grow, a resilient vine that yields big. It does well just about anywhere Β but Warmer climates with more fertile soils bring out the fatter, riper side, resulting in a lopsided wine. Home court advantage definitely shows in Austria. Some of the best examples come from theΒ Wachau region. Here theΒ vines grow on steep terraced vineyards in weathered granite rock, slate, and thin layers of silty loess.
It gets along with all sorts ofΒ food
Roast fish and asparagus with lemon caper drizzle. Recipe here.
Gruner’s high acidity and peppery notes make it one of the most versatile wines to pair with food.Β Try it with Asian dishes, especially Vietnamese meals like Larb salad, pad thai, or even mild curries. It’s also one of the few wines that does really well with leafy greens like kale, chard, or cabbage. Herb salads, asparagus and artichokes usually make for risky pairings, butΒ the green vegetable notes in Gruner accentΒ these foods perfectly.Β Fried chicken and porkΒ schnitzel also make excellent choices.
It’s an age worthy white
TonsΒ ofΒ Gruner comes out of Austria priced less thanΒ $20/bottle andΒ designed forΒ immediate enjoyment. Probably not ideal for storing in the cellar.Β ReserveΒ Gruner usually costs around $40 or more and hasΒ 12.5% or higher alcohol. They can age for decades right alongside the best White Burgundy, developing a massiveΒ complexity while maintaining their freshness.
Most Gruner sees very little, if any oak treatment. In fact, Austrian law forbids any noticeable oak influence. Which isn’t to say winemakersΒ don’t use it. Gruner destined for a reserve bottling oftenΒ spends time in neutral oak which gives the wine a fuller body. Some spend time aging on lees which adds a layer of creamy complexity.Β TheseΒ bottlesΒ bring a whole new dimensionΒ into focus and show the true potential of the varietal.
A word about Austrian classifications
The Wachau classification uses these three symbols to designate various quality levels.
Just like any respectable wine region, Austria has its own system of classifying wines. TheΒ Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) is similar to France’s AOC system. Wines with a DAC designation represent the better examples of theirΒ respective appellation.Β Look forΒ Traisental DAC,Β Kremstal DAC, orΒ Kamptal DAC on the label of Gruner. These will generally offer more complexity and typical Gruner traits.
There’s also aΒ Wachau Classification system, unique to the region, which breaks down into three levels:
Steinfeder – This is the lowest classification, essentially used for lower alcohol (under 11.5%) wines, good quaffing wines meant to be enjoyed young.
Federspiel – Must have alcohol ofΒ 11.5-12.5%. These wines have a bit more weight andΒ stand up better to a wide variety of foods.
Smaragd – The highest quality is designated by the lizard symbol, and must contain 12.5% or higher alcohol. These are the most age-worthy and expensive Wachau wines.
