With the forecast predictingΒ 90+ degrees here in Napa tomorrow it can only mean one thing –Β #RosΓ©AllDayΒ baby!Β The Rise of RosΓ© is undeniable. Just five years ago your local BevMo had maybe ten bottles, and today they stock 50+. Yes, pink juice hasΒ become undeniably hip, and today we have more options to choose from than ever.
Just about anyΒ red grape isΒ used to make rosΓ©, and it largely depends on the region. In Provence they use mostlyΒ Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Carignan. In Napa they might use Cabernet, while in Rioja it’s Tempranillo.Β Each varietal lendsΒ its own subtle personalityΒ to the finished wine, but regardless of the grape, most rosΓ©sΒ probablyΒ share a few common elements – bracing acidity, low alcohol, a lack of oak aging, and fresh berry flavors.
In fact the most compelling differences between two bottles probably doesn’t depend on the varietal but ratherΒ the production method – either saignΓ©e or direct press maceration. Before you decide to say #yeswayroseΒ there are a few things you should knowΒ about these two methods.
You say saignΓ©e, I say no way
RosΓ© production is split between two primary methods, each yieldingΒ a slightly different style. The direct press method is preferred by purists in the southern France regionsΒ of Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon, while the saignΓ©e method is more common in places where they make higher end red wines.
SaignΓ©e Method
From the French word forΒ “bleeding”, the saignΓ©e method is aΒ by-product of makingΒ red wine where a small amountΒ of juice is bled off early in fermentation.Β This helps increase concentration of the remaining juice in the same way you’d reduce a sauce to intensify flavors. Once the juice is separated, the winemaker has a few options. They can simply pour it down the drain, use it to top off barrels of wine (ullage) – or make aΒ rosΓ©.
RosΓ© made this wayΒ tends to have deeper, more vibrantΒ pink color and darker flavors ofΒ blackberry, raspberry, and berry jam. While some think of this technique asΒ an afterthought of red wine production, supporters of theΒ saignΓ©e method insist their wines are purposeful, and argue it produces the riperΒ flavors and greater expression of the varietal.
Direct Press (Maceration) MethodΒ
Many producers, especially those in Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon, take a more traditional approach to making rosΓ©. Grapes are grown and selected exclusively for rosΓ© production, often crushed as whole clusters, and then gently pressed until the juice reaches a desirable pale color. Some producers may also allow a few hours skin contact (maceration) before separating the juice from the must, which adds a richer color to the finished product.
Winemakers who use thisΒ method praise its more deliberate approach which starts during harvest when grapes are picked at lower brix to keep the alcohol levels downΒ while bringing up the acidity. SaignΓ©e might yield more robust flavor and deeper pink color, but theΒ direct press method ushers inΒ more perfumed aromatics and delicateΒ flavor compounds like strawberry, bright cerry, and rhubarb.
Which oneΒ is better?
You might come across articles sayingΒ saignΓ©e makes the “best quality rosΓ©”. But is that really true?Β FranΓ§ois Millo, president of the Provence Wine Council doesn’t think so. He had some harsh wordsΒ about the saignee method, telling The Drinks BusinessΒ it’s a “bad way to make rose”.
βPeople who make saignΓ©e rosΓ© are opportunists. In their mind they are making red wine β the rosΓ© just happens to be a by-product.β
FranΓ§ois Millo
Of course there’s plenty of great saignΓ©e rosΓ© out there. Despite strong feelings on both sides, it’s hard to say which method is better. Ask a dozenΒ winemakers and you’ll get all sorts of responses.Β It really boils down to your preferences. Like higher acidity and strawberry/rhubarb flavors? Stick with a Provencal rosΓ©. Want a bigger style? Try a saignΓ©e from Napa. Β At the end of the day, what really matters is whether or not you’d open a second bottle.